When Cortni Borgerson considers the trillion or so periodical cicadas coming out from beneath the ground, she envisions more than just clumsily flying insects flitting from tree to tree in search of a mate. To her, they are a potential meal.
Some may find this notion repulsive, often based on colonialist ideas and the belief that consuming insects is “uncivilized.” However, Borgerson, an anthropologist at Montclair State University, is among those looking to change that perspective. She enjoys eating various types of bugs and finds cicadas especially delicious. “It’s one of the finest American insects,” she remarked.
She describes their texture as similar to peeled shrimp and their taste as a combination of a chicken nugget and a sunflower seed. Borgerson suggests preparing them like any other meat and trying them in tacos.
As reported by Grist, Borgerson is not alone in her fascination with edible insects. Ahead of this spring’s dual-brood emergence, there has been a surge in cicada recipes, desserts, and culinary tributes to these hefty insects. This growing interest is part of a social movement favoring alternative proteins among consumers who are increasingly demanding a more sustainable food system.
“They’re this magical-looking insect that crawls up, that people are excited and interested in,” she mentioned. “People are more excited about eating it than they might be about other types of insects.”
Borgerson believes that the cicada emergence provides an opportunity to dispel misconceptions and stereotypes about consuming insects. She sees them as not just a delicacy but also a sustainable alternative to highly carbon-intensive proteins like beef and a way to address the escalating problem of increasing rates of food insecurity.
“Some insects have an incredible opportunity, and a potential, to reduce our carbon footprint in a delicious, but sustainable, way,” she explained.
About 30 percent of the world’s population regard insects as a delicacy or dietary staple, a tradition that dates back centuries. A study released earlier this year revealed that over 3,000 ethnic groups in 128 countries consume 2,205 species of Insecta, with everything from caterpillars to locusts featured in various dishes. These invertebrates are rich in protein, fat, and vitamins. Most insect consumption occurs in Asia, North America — particularly in Mexico where 450 varieties are enjoyed — and Africa.
This concept remains novel in the United States, where only six species are regularly consumed (with crickets being the most popular). Due to old stigmas, consumer attitudes pose a challenge to wider acceptance.
Julie Lesnik, an anthropologist at Wayne State University who studies the Western aversion towards eating insects like beetles, attributes the “ick” response many Americans exhibit to a cultural legacy of colonization.
“Disgust is deeply felt on a visceral and biological level,” she noted. “Telling someone that their aversion to insects is cultural and not hardwired into them is challenging because you can physically feel your stomach turn or experience a gag reflex if the thought of eating insects disgusts you. Disgust is one of the few learned emotions. Therefore, we are disgusted by things our culture tells us to be repelled by.”
She believes this reaction can also demonstrate internalized prejudice. Throughout North America, Indigenous peoples historically ate various insects, a practice labeled “uncivilized” by European settlers — a way to denigrate non-white communities and their cultures. “Is it racist? Yes, to put it plainly,” according to Lesnik.
The racialized origins of this mindset have come under scrutiny recently amidst widespread right-wing claims that a shadowy global elite seeks to make people consume insects. Politicized conspiracy theories — such as the notion that Bill Gates plans to eliminate meat consumption and enforce insect consumption — are inaccurate narratives that Joseph Yoon combats daily.
“The idea of edible insects, I believe, makes people contemplate the worst-case scenario,” stated Yoon, the founder of Brooklyn Bugs and a chef advocate for the United Nations International Fund for Agricultural Development. “It’s meant for doomsday, poverty, marginalized communities in developing nations. This notion breeds fear, resentment, anger. Instead of confining insects to a narrow view because of lack of understanding, we can collaborate to develop solutions for our global food systems.”
Eleven years ago, the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization hailed insects as a promising substitute for traditional meat production. Since then, numerous North American startups have emerged to promote insects as a primary food source for humans, an ingredient (commonly using flour), or as feed for livestock and pets. The insect protein market in the U.S. is projected to reach $1.1 billion by 2033, while globally, it is anticipated to surpass this figure by more than triple.
Nevertheless, for an industry in its early stages, the feasibility of scaling insect protein as a credible climate solution remains a pressing question, extensively researched by Rachel Mazac. A sustainability researcher at the Stockholm Resilience Centre, Mazac is among the scientists studying the carbon footprint of mass-producing insects like crickets, mealworms, and black soldier flies. Despite the scarcity of data on this topic, Mazac believes insects deserve further consideration as a viable alternative to more prevalent — and carbon-intensive — meats.
However, not all view insects as a climate solution. Matthew Hayek, an environmental researcher and assistant professor at New York University, co-authored a 2024 survey of over 200 climate and agricultural scientists indicating broad support for intensified efforts to promote alternatives to meat and dairy. Yet, Hayek questions whether insects are a crucial part of the essential solutions for the environment. He raises concerns about the environmental impact of feeding insects to livestock and the ethical aspects of raising and harvesting them.
“Exploring this area is worthwhile for fundamental science, research, and development,” he stated. “However, as of now, it is not a viable market-level climate solution that should be invested in.”
Jeffery Tomberlin, an entomologist at Texas A&M University and director of the Center for Environmental Sustainability through Insect Farming, disagrees. He advocates considering all potential alternative proteins to address the climate crisis and reform the global food system. “When discussing ways to be better caretakers of our planet, we need to explore all possibilities,” he emphasized. “Diversification is crucial.”
Nonetheless, achieving this goal will necessitate the willingness of consumers and policymakers to discard outdated notions and explore fresh opportunities. According to Tomberlin, this shift in mindset would catalyze research and funding to “safely and efficiently” develop the processing and production practices essential for making insect protein a practical, scalable alternative to other types of meat. Only then can the concept of eating insects evolve beyond trendy headlines, and cicada tacos become more than a passing fad.
This story was produced by Grist and reviewed and distributed by Stacker Media.
