In the third season of “The Bear,” we realize how aptly named the Emmy-winning series is.
A beast for everyone involved, the restaurant Carmy and Sydney opened at the end of the second season has become an ever-looming presence.
Determined to set standards he met under other chefs, the perfectionist Carmy (Jeremy Allen White) makes a list of “non-negotiables” that seems a bit too severe: different menus every day, beautiful plating, peak performance from everyone.
He gets pushback, but the others realize he has something to prove.
To understand the stakes, creator Christopher Storer uses many flashback episodes to fill in the blanks — about Carmy’s training, the restaurant’s beef days, the Berzatto family’s skeletons.
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An episode focused on Tina (Liza Colon-Zayas), the tough-talking line cook, is among the season’s best. It points up the differences within the kitchen and gives Colon-Zayas a beautiful showcase. Directed by Ayo Edebiri (who plays Sydney), it shows what sacrifices she has made and how far she has come. Colon-Zayas and Edebiri nail it.
Carmy’s time under those Michelin-starred chefs explains his drive. He was pushed just the way he’s pushing this business’s personnel. The cryptic cellphone photos make sense; the loss of a favored restaurant resonates.
Naturally, Richie (the always-good Ebon MossBachrach) is the first to pop under the new world order. Even though he adapted to the switch from sandwich shop to fine dining, he still has a tipping point. The initial argument is classic — and should make the term “non-negotiable” as prominent as “yes, chef” and “hands.”
While Storer makes sure fans’ favorite guest stars get at least a cameo in the third season, his real strength is in pushing the regulars. Marcus (Lionel Boyce), the restaurant’s pastry chef, studies his boss’s past and gets a different take on what makes Carmy run. He also has a tear-jerking moment at a funeral that should be a template for eulogies everywhere.
Moving into Chicago more than he has in the past, Storer shows workers in other professions rolling through their days. Equally stressful, they put the restaurant business in perspective and, yes, build to that all-important visit from a food critic.
Neil (Matty Matheson) is so intent on spotting who might be there to review, he creates a “code red” and increases the pressure.
Comfortably settled into its run, “The Bear” isn’t satisfied with playing out the cards. Like Carmy (who, by the way, is still highly watchable and manic), it doesn’t just ride out a day. It makes something as simple as paper towels a crisis for everyone.
To demonstrate just how different the restaurant now is, cinematographers linger on the food while White arranges elements with precision. It looks delicious (and makes you want to visit the place).
While bills mount, a pregnant Natalie (Abby Elliott), who handles the business side of things, feels the pressure. She, too, wants Carmy’s dream to transpire — it just might come with an awfully high price tag.
Because FX on Hulu is releasing all of the episodes on one day, you should book vacation and binge. These are “The Bear’s” potato-chip years; you just can’t savor one episode at a time.
Season 3 of “The Bear” is available for streaming on Hulu.
