Waking up early to the charming town of Hallstatt is a rare treat for me. Located two hours south of Salzburg, this picturesque town nestled by the lake is truly captivating. The glassy waters of Lake Hallstatt mirror the town’s church spire in the morning light, with a shuttle boat gliding through the reflection, creating a picturesque scene that momentarily disrupts the tranquil peace of the setting.
Hallstatt, situated in Austria’s Salzkammergut lake district, has been a source of wonder for nature enthusiasts for centuries. This region, known for its idyllic and majestic beauty, is reminiscent of scenes from Sound of Music – a gentle landscape where lakes and mountains blend seamlessly together.
Before the existence of Rome, Hallstatt was already thriving. As one of Europe’s oldest settlements, Hallstatt was originally a salt mining hub (the name itself means “place of salt”). Excavations under some buildings have revealed Roman and pre-Roman Celtic pavement stones from ancient times, showcasing the historical significance of salt mining in the region dating back to 7,000 BC.
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Visitors to Hallstatt can take a funicular up the mountain to explore the town’s salt mine, one of many in the region offering guided tours. Donning overalls, tourists venture deep into the mountain to learn about the rich history of salt mining. A highlight of the tour is the thrilling ride down long banisters, reminiscent of miners descending from one level to the next.
Despite the impact of tourism on Hallstatt’s charm, the town still preserves its vivid cultural traditions. Traditional green felt hats adorned with decorative feathers are a popular accessory in Austria. During a feather-in-the-hat party, men proudly showcase their finely crafted hats and traditional attire, adding to the town’s unique ambiance.
In the past, Hallstatt had no road access, relying on boats for transportation. The traditional Fuhr boats, designed to transport salt, can still be seen in the area. A local friend once took me on a ride in his Fuhr boat, sharing the tranquil experience of navigating the waters with a rhythmic rowing motion.
One of the intriguing sights in Hallstatt is Pension Hallberg, displaying artifacts recovered from the bottom of Lake Hallstatt, including a collection of Nazi paraphernalia. The explanation behind this unexpected discovery sheds light on the historical context of disposing of war medals in the lake as a means of concealing past affiliations.
Restaurant Bräugasthof offers a delightful dining experience lakeside, serving freshly caught fish from Lake Hallstatt. Whether enjoying Reinanke (whitefish) or Saibling (lake trout), diners can feed the swans that gracefully patrol the lake, adding to the enchanting atmosphere of the town.
When reminiscing about my favorite small-town destinations in Europe, places like Hallstatt come to mind – where nature and culture harmoniously coexist, each balcony adorned with unique flowerboxes, and swans gracefully glide by, eagerly awaiting treats from lakeside diners. Hallstatt truly embodies the essence of a charming European town.
(Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European guidebooks, hosts travel shows on public TV and radio, and organizes European tours. This column revisits some of Rick’s favorite places over the past two decades. You can email Rick at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.)
